Conquering the Nepal Three Passes Trek

Mahenbalal
Travel Writer & Local Expert

The Nepal Three Passes Trek stands as one of the most challenging and rewarding adventures in the Himalayas, offering trekkers an unparalleled journey through the heart of the Everest region. This epic 18-21 day expedition traverses three formidable high-altitude passes—Kongma La (5,535m), Cho La (5,420m), and Renjo La (5,360m)—while circumnavigating the Khumbu region and providing breathtaking views of the world's highest peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam.
Unlike the standard Everest Base Camp trek that follows a linear route, the Three Passes Trek creates a complete loop through the Everest region, allowing trekkers to experience the full diversity of the Khumbu Valley, the pristine Gokyo Lakes, and the remote valleys that few visitors ever see. This comprehensive guide will prepare you for what many consider the ultimate Himalayan trekking experience.
Understanding the Three Passes: A Journey Through Thin Air
The Three Passes Trek is not for the faint of heart. Each pass presents unique challenges, from steep ascents and technical glacier crossings to high-altitude exposure that tests even experienced trekkers. However, those who complete this journey are rewarded with some of the most spectacular mountain vistas on Earth and a profound sense of accomplishment that few other treks can match.
Kongma La Pass: The Highest Challenge (5,535 meters)
Kongma La, the highest of the three passes at 5,535 meters (18,159 feet), serves as the first major challenge for most trekkers. Located between Chukhung and Lobuche, this pass offers panoramic views of Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Ama Dablam (6,812m), three of the world's most iconic peaks.
The ascent to Kongma La typically begins from Chukhung (4,730m), requiring a steep climb of approximately 800 vertical meters. The route involves navigating rocky terrain, crossing small streams, and in early season, potentially dealing with snow and ice. The pass itself is marked by prayer flags and offers a brief moment of celebration before the challenging descent to Lobuche begins.
The descent from Kongma La can be particularly demanding, especially if conditions are icy or snowy. Trekkers must exercise caution on the steep, rocky terrain that leads down to the Khumbu Glacier. However, the reward for completing this first pass is immense—you've conquered the highest point of the Three Passes Trek, and the remaining challenges, while still significant, will feel more manageable.
Cho La Pass: The Glacier Crossing (5,420 meters)
Cho La Pass, at 5,420 meters (17,782 feet), presents a different kind of challenge. This pass connects the villages of Dzongla and Thagnak, leading trekkers into the spectacular Gokyo Valley. What makes Cho La particularly challenging is the glacier crossing required to reach the pass.
The approach to Cho La involves crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier, the longest glacier in Nepal at 36 kilometers. This section requires careful navigation, as the glacier's surface is constantly changing, with crevasses that can be hidden beneath snow. During the crossing, trekkers must follow their guide closely and use trekking poles for stability on the icy terrain.
The ascent to Cho La Pass itself is steep and can be challenging, especially if there's snow or ice. However, reaching the pass rewards trekkers with stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, and the surrounding peaks. The descent into Thagnak is equally steep and requires careful footing, but the knowledge that you're entering the beautiful Gokyo Valley provides motivation to continue.
Renjo La Pass: The Hidden Gem (5,360 meters)
Renjo La Pass, at 5,360 meters (17,585 feet), is the lowest of the three passes but by no means the easiest. This pass offers a less crowded alternative route and provides unique perspectives of the Everest region that many trekkers never see. The pass connects Gokyo with the Thame Valley, offering a different approach to the region.
The ascent to Renjo La from Gokyo involves a steady climb through rocky terrain, with the final section requiring careful navigation. However, reaching the pass is truly spectacular—the view from Renjo La of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu (8,188m) is considered by many to be one of the best in the entire Khumbu region.
The descent from Renjo La into the Thame Valley reveals the pristine Gokyo Lakes from above and provides a different perspective on the Ngozumpa Glacier. This section of the trek is less traveled, offering a sense of solitude and wilderness that's increasingly rare in the popular Everest region.
The Complete Itinerary: 18-21 Days of Himalayan Adventure
A typical Three Passes Trek itinerary spans 18-21 days, depending on acclimatization needs, weather conditions, and individual fitness levels. Here's a detailed day-by-day breakdown of what to expect:
Days 1-4: Arrival and Initial Acclimatization
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m) Your journey begins in Kathmandu, Nepal's vibrant capital city. This is your opportunity to finalize permits, meet your guide, and ensure all equipment is in order. The Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu issues the required Sagarmatha National Park permit, while the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit can be obtained in Lukla or Namche Bazaar.
Day 2: Flight to Lukla (2,860m) and Trek to Phakding (2,610m) The 35-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the world's most spectacular short flights, offering views of the Himalayas before landing on the famous Tenzing-Hillary Airport runway. From Lukla, a gentle 3-4 hour descent leads to Phakding, your first night in the mountains.
Day 3: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) This 5-6 hour day involves crossing the Dudh Koshi River multiple times via suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Bridge. The final steep climb to Namche Bazaar is challenging but rewards you with your first views of Everest and arrival at the Sherpa capital.
Day 4: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar Acclimatization is crucial at this altitude. An optional hike to the Everest View Hotel (3,880m) provides stunning mountain views while helping your body adjust to the decreasing oxygen levels. This rest day is essential for preventing altitude sickness later in the trek.
Days 5-8: Entering the High Altitude Zone
Day 5: Trek to Tengboche (3,870m) A 5-6 hour trek through rhododendron forests leads to Tengboche, home to the region's most important monastery. The Tengboche Monastery, rebuilt after a fire in 1989, offers daily prayer ceremonies and stunning views of Ama Dablam.
Day 6: Trek to Dingboche (4,410m) The trail continues through the Imja Valley, with increasingly spectacular mountain views. Dingboche, at 4,410 meters, marks your entry into truly high-altitude territory. The village is known for its stone-walled fields and traditional Sherpa architecture.
Day 7: Acclimatization Day in Dingboche Another crucial acclimatization day. An optional hike to Nangkartshang Peak (5,083m) provides excellent training for the passes ahead while offering panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.
Day 8: Trek to Chukhung (4,730m) A shorter day (4-5 hours) that takes you to Chukhung, the staging point for Kongma La Pass. This small settlement offers basic teahouse accommodation and serves as your base for the first major pass crossing.
Days 9-11: Conquering Kongma La and Reaching Base Camp
Day 9: Cross Kongma La Pass (5,535m) to Lobuche (4,940m) The most challenging day so far. An early start (5-6 AM) is essential to cross Kongma La before afternoon weather deteriorates. The 6-8 hour day involves a steep ascent to the pass, celebration at the summit, and a challenging descent to Lobuche. This is where your physical and mental preparation pays off.
Day 10: Trek to Gorak Shep (5,170m) and Everest Base Camp (5,364m) A relatively short trek (3-4 hours) to Gorak Shep, the last settlement before Base Camp. After lunch, continue to Everest Base Camp, where you'll stand at the foot of the world's highest mountain. The return to Gorak Shep makes for a long but unforgettable day.
Day 11: Climb Kala Patthar (5,545m) and Trek to Dzongla (4,830m) An early morning climb to Kala Patthar for sunrise views of Everest is one of the trek's highlights. After descending, trek to Dzongla, a small settlement that serves as the staging point for Cho La Pass.
Days 12-15: Crossing Cho La and Exploring Gokyo
Day 12: Cross Cho La Pass (5,420m) to Thagnak (4,700m) Another early start for the glacier crossing and ascent to Cho La. The Ngozumpa Glacier crossing requires careful navigation, and the pass itself offers spectacular views. The descent to Thagnak completes another major milestone.
Day 13: Trek to Gokyo (4,790m) A relatively easy day (3-4 hours) that takes you into the beautiful Gokyo Valley. Gokyo sits beside the third of six stunning turquoise lakes, with the massive Ngozumpa Glacier visible in the distance.
Day 14: Climb Gokyo Ri (5,357m) and Explore Gokyo Lakes An early morning climb to Gokyo Ri provides what many consider the best views of Everest in the entire region. The afternoon can be spent exploring the Gokyo Lakes, each more beautiful than the last, and learning about the local Sherpa culture.
Day 15: Cross Renjo La Pass (5,360m) to Marlung (4,210m) The final pass crossing. Renjo La offers unique perspectives of the Everest region and a sense of accomplishment as you complete the third and final pass. The descent to Marlung is steep but manageable, and you'll feel the relief of descending to lower altitudes.
Days 16-18: Return Journey
Day 16: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) A long but mostly downhill day (6-7 hours) that returns you to Namche Bazaar. The lower altitude will feel noticeably easier, and you can celebrate completing all three passes.
Day 17: Trek to Lukla (2,860m) The final day of trekking (6-7 hours) returns you to Lukla, where you can reflect on your incredible journey and celebrate with your guide and fellow trekkers.
Day 18: Flight to Kathmandu Weather permitting, your flight returns you to Kathmandu, where hot showers, comfortable beds, and well-deserved celebrations await.
Physical Preparation and Fitness Requirements
The Three Passes Trek is considered one of the most challenging treks in Nepal, requiring excellent physical fitness and mental determination. Unlike shorter treks, this 18-21 day journey demands sustained performance at high altitudes, often for consecutive days.
Cardiovascular Fitness
Excellent cardiovascular fitness is essential. You'll be hiking 5-8 hours daily at altitudes where oxygen levels are 40-50% lower than at sea level. Recommended training includes:
- Running or jogging: 3-4 times per week, building to 5-10km sessions
- Stair climbing: Simulates the steep ascents you'll encounter
- Hiking with a loaded pack: Practice hikes with 10-15kg packs on hilly terrain
- Interval training: High-intensity intervals to build cardiovascular capacity
Strength Training
The steep ascents and descents, especially on the passes, require significant leg strength. Focus on:
- Squats and lunges: Build quadriceps and glute strength
- Step-ups: Mimic the repetitive motion of climbing
- Core exercises: Strong core helps with balance on technical terrain
- Upper body strength: Important for using trekking poles effectively
Altitude Training
While you can't fully simulate high-altitude conditions at sea level, you can prepare your body:
- Breathing exercises: Practice controlled breathing techniques
- High-altitude training: If possible, train at elevations above 2,000m
- Gradual exposure: The trek itinerary includes acclimatization days for this purpose
Mental Preparation
The Three Passes Trek is as much a mental challenge as a physical one. Prepare for:
- Long days: Some days involve 8-10 hours of trekking
- Uncomfortable conditions: Cold, wind, and fatigue are inevitable
- Problem-solving: Weather, route-finding, and equipment issues require adaptability
- Patience: Acclimatization can't be rushed; listen to your body
Permits and Regulations: What You Need to Know
As of April 2023, Nepal has implemented new regulations requiring all trekkers to hire licensed guides. This policy enhances safety, supports local economies, and reduces the burden on rescue services. For the Three Passes Trek, you'll need:
Required Permits
- Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: $30 USD
- Can be obtained at the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or at the park entrance in Monjo
- Valid for the duration of your trek
- Required for all trekkers entering the Everest region
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit: NPR 2,000 (approximately $15 USD)
- Introduced in 2018 to support local infrastructure and communities
- Can be obtained in Lukla or Namche Bazaar
- Required for all trekkers in the Khumbu region
- TIMS Card (Trekking Information Management System): $20 USD
- While not always strictly enforced in the Everest region, it's recommended
- Helps track trekkers for safety purposes
- Can be obtained in Kathmandu
Guide Requirements
- Licensed guide mandatory: As of 2023, solo trekking is banned in Nepal
- Guide costs: $25-40 USD per day for a licensed guide
- Porter-guide option: $30-50 USD per day for guides who can also carry your gear
- Group discounts: Larger groups can negotiate better rates
Your guide will handle permit arrangements, route navigation, accommodation bookings, and provide invaluable local knowledge about weather, trail conditions, and cultural etiquette.
Cost Breakdown: Planning Your Budget
The Three Passes Trek is more expensive than standard treks due to its longer duration and the requirement for guides. Here's a realistic cost breakdown:
Trekking Costs (Per Person)
- Guided trek package: $1,800-$2,400 USD
- Includes: Guide, permits, accommodation, meals, domestic flights
- Excludes: International flights, travel insurance, tips, personal expenses
- Independent trekking (with guide): $1,200-$1,800 USD
- Guide: $25-40/day × 18 days = $450-$720
- Accommodation: $5-15/night × 18 nights = $90-$270
- Meals: $15-25/day × 18 days = $270-$450
- Permits: $65 total
- Domestic flights: $300-400 round trip
- Porter (optional): $20-25/day = $360-$450
Additional Costs
- Travel insurance: $100-200 (must include helicopter evacuation up to 6,000m)
- Equipment rental: $100-300 (if you don't own gear)
- Tips: $150-300 (guide: $100-200, porter: $50-100)
- Kathmandu accommodation: $20-50/night
- Meals in Kathmandu: $10-30/day
- Emergency fund: $500-1,000 (for unexpected expenses or early departure)
Total Budget Estimate
- Budget option: $2,500-$3,000 USD
- Mid-range option: $3,500-$4,500 USD
- Luxury option: $5,000+ USD
Best Time to Trek: Seasonal Considerations
The Three Passes Trek is best attempted during two primary seasons when weather conditions are most favorable:
Pre-Monsoon Season (March to May)
Advantages:
- Stable weather with clear skies
- Excellent mountain visibility
- Warmer temperatures at lower elevations
- Rhododendron forests in full bloom (especially in April)
- Longer days for trekking
Considerations:
- Higher elevations still cold, especially mornings
- Some snow/ice on passes possible in early March
- Increasingly crowded as season progresses
- Pre-monsoon haze can develop in May
Best for: Photographers, those who prefer warmer weather, flower enthusiasts
Post-Monsoon Season (September to November)
Advantages:
- Clearest skies and best mountain views
- Stable, dry weather
- Cooler, more comfortable temperatures
- Peak trekking season with best conditions
- Excellent visibility for photography
Considerations:
- Cold temperatures, especially at higher elevations
- Very crowded in October (peak season)
- Higher prices for flights and accommodation
- Early morning starts can be very cold
Best for: Serious photographers, those seeking optimal conditions, experienced trekkers
Seasons to Avoid
Monsoon (June to August):
- Heavy rainfall makes trails dangerous
- High risk of landslides and flooding
- Poor visibility and cloudy skies
- Most teahouses closed
- Not recommended
Winter (December to February):
- Extremely cold temperatures (-20°C at high elevations)
- Heavy snow on passes makes crossing dangerous
- Many teahouses closed
- Shorter days limit trekking time
- Only for experienced winter mountaineers
Acclimatization: Your Key to Success
Proper acclimatization is the single most important factor for successfully completing the Three Passes Trek. Altitude sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness, or AMS) can affect anyone, regardless of fitness level, and can be life-threatening if ignored.
Understanding Altitude Sickness
Altitude sickness occurs when your body cannot adapt quickly enough to decreasing oxygen levels. Symptoms include:
- Mild AMS: Headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness, loss of appetite
- Moderate AMS: Severe headache, persistent nausea/vomiting, difficulty sleeping
- Severe AMS (HACE/HAPE): Confusion, loss of coordination, difficulty breathing, fluid in lungs
Acclimatization Strategies
- Follow the itinerary: The trek includes acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche for good reason
- Climb high, sleep low: On acclimatization days, hike to higher elevations but return to sleep at lower altitudes
- Stay hydrated: Drink 3-4 liters of water daily
- Avoid alcohol: Alcohol exacerbates altitude sickness
- Listen to your body: Headaches are common, but severe symptoms require immediate descent
- Diamox (Acetazolamide): Consult your doctor about preventive medication
Warning Signs
If you experience severe symptoms, you must descend immediately:
- Severe headache that doesn't respond to medication
- Persistent vomiting
- Loss of coordination or confusion
- Difficulty breathing at rest
- Blue lips or fingernails
Never ignore altitude sickness symptoms. Your guide is trained to recognize these signs and will recommend descent if necessary.
Cultural Experiences: Immersing in Sherpa Culture
The Three Passes Trek offers unparalleled opportunities to experience authentic Sherpa culture. The Khumbu region is home to the Sherpa people, whose culture, religion, and way of life are deeply intertwined with the mountains.
Sherpa Villages and Monasteries
Throughout the trek, you'll pass through traditional Sherpa villages where life has changed little in centuries. Key cultural sites include:
- Tengboche Monastery: The region's most important Buddhist monastery, rebuilt after a fire in 1989. Daily prayer ceremonies are open to visitors, and the monastery hosts the annual Mani Rimdu festival.
- Namche Bazaar: The Sherpa capital and trading hub. Visit the Sherpa Culture Museum to learn about local history, and explore the Saturday market where traders from Tibet and lower regions gather.
- Thame Monastery: One of the oldest monasteries in the region, founded in the 17th century. The monastery is associated with Tenzing Norgay, the first person to summit Everest alongside Sir Edmund Hillary.
Cultural Etiquette
- Respect religious sites: Remove shoes, hats, and sunglasses before entering monasteries
- Ask permission: Always ask before photographing people, especially during religious ceremonies
- Clockwise direction: Walk around stupas and prayer wheels clockwise
- Don't point: Use your whole hand, not a finger, to indicate direction
- Right hand: Use your right hand for giving and receiving items
Local Cuisine
Sherpa cuisine reflects the harsh mountain environment and Tibetan influences:
- Dal Bhat: The national dish of Nepal—lentil soup, rice, and vegetable curry
- Momos: Tibetan-style dumplings, often filled with vegetables or meat
- Sherpa stew: Hearty vegetable and meat stew, perfect for cold evenings
- Tibetan bread: Fried bread, often served with honey
- Butter tea: Salty tea with yak butter, an acquired taste but warming
Safety Considerations: Preparing for the Unexpected
The Three Passes Trek involves significant risks that must be taken seriously. Proper preparation and awareness can mitigate most dangers.
Weather Hazards
- Sudden storms: Weather can change rapidly in the mountains
- Whiteout conditions: Snow and fog can make navigation impossible
- Avalanche risk: Especially on passes in early season
- Hypothermia: Cold, wet conditions can be life-threatening
Prevention: Start early each day, carry appropriate clothing, listen to your guide's weather assessments
Terrain Hazards
- Glacier crossings: Crevasses on Cho La require careful navigation
- Rockfall: Loose rocks on steep sections
- River crossings: Can be dangerous during monsoon or after heavy rain
- Steep descents: Risk of falls, especially when tired
Prevention: Use trekking poles, follow your guide's route, don't rush descents
Health Hazards
- Altitude sickness: The primary health risk
- Dehydration: Common at altitude
- Sun exposure: Intense UV radiation at high elevations
- Gastrointestinal issues: From contaminated water or food
Prevention: Proper acclimatization, water purification, sunscreen, hand sanitizer
Emergency Preparedness
- Travel insurance: Must include helicopter evacuation up to 6,000m
- Emergency contacts: Keep contact information for your embassy, insurance company, and guide
- Communication: Satellite phones or communication devices (your guide should have one)
- First aid: Carry a comprehensive first aid kit and know how to use it
Essential Packing List: What to Bring
Packing correctly for the Three Passes Trek is crucial. You'll need to balance having essential gear with keeping your pack weight manageable.
Clothing (Layering System)
Base Layers:
- 2-3 sets of moisture-wicking thermal underwear (merino wool recommended)
- 2-3 pairs of hiking socks (merino wool)
- 1-2 pairs of liner socks
Mid Layers:
- 2-3 long-sleeve shirts (synthetic or merino)
- 1-2 fleece jackets or pullovers
- 1 softshell jacket
Outer Layers:
- 1 down jacket (rated to -10°C minimum)
- 1 waterproof/windproof shell jacket (Gore-Tex recommended)
- 1 pair of waterproof/windproof pants
- 1 pair of trekking pants (convertible recommended)
Accessories:
- Warm hat (beanie)
- Sun hat with brim
- Buff or neck gaiter
- 2 pairs of gloves (lightweight and heavy)
- Sunglasses (UV protection essential)
- Gaiters (for snow/glacier sections)
Footwear
- Trekking boots: Waterproof, broken in, with good ankle support
- Camp shoes: Lightweight shoes for teahouses
- Gaiters: Essential for snow and glacier sections
Equipment
- Backpack: 40-50 liters (if using porter) or 60-70 liters (if carrying own gear)
- Sleeping bag: Rated to -15°C to -20°C
- Sleeping bag liner: Adds warmth and keeps bag clean
- Trekking poles: Essential for stability on passes
- Headlamp: With extra batteries
- Water bottles: 2-3 liters capacity total
- Water purification: Tablets or filter system
- Duffel bag: For porter to carry (if using one)
Personal Items
- First aid kit: Comprehensive, including altitude sickness medication
- Sunscreen: SPF 50+ (high altitude = intense UV)
- Lip balm: With SPF protection
- Toiletries: Biodegradable soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
- Wet wipes: For cleaning when water is limited
- Hand sanitizer: Essential for hygiene
- Towel: Quick-dry microfiber
- Camera: With extra batteries and memory cards
- Power bank: For charging devices (charging costs $2-5 per device in teahouses)
Documents
- Passport: With at least 6 months validity
- Permits: Will be arranged by your guide
- Travel insurance: Policy details and emergency contacts
- Passport photos: 4-6 copies for permits
- Emergency contacts: Written down, not just in phone
The Rewards: Why the Three Passes Trek is Worth It
Completing the Three Passes Trek is an achievement that will stay with you forever. Beyond the physical accomplishment, the trek offers:
Unparalleled Scenery
- 360-degree mountain views: From multiple vantage points
- Gokyo Lakes: Six stunning turquoise lakes in a pristine setting
- Glacier views: The massive Ngozumpa Glacier up close
- Remote valleys: Areas few trekkers ever see
- Sunrise/sunset: Spectacular light on the world's highest peaks
Personal Growth
- Mental resilience: Overcoming challenges builds confidence
- Physical achievement: One of the world's most demanding treks
- Cultural immersion: Deep connection with Sherpa culture
- Self-reliance: Learning to adapt and problem-solve
Unique Experiences
- Everest Base Camp: Stand at the foot of the world's highest mountain
- Kala Patthar: Sunrise views of Everest
- Gokyo Ri: Arguably the best Everest viewpoint
- Three high passes: Each with its own character and challenges
- Remote wilderness: Experience the Khumbu region's wild side
Planning Your Three Passes Trek: Final Checklist
Before embarking on this incredible journey, ensure you've completed the following:
- Physical fitness training (3-6 months minimum)
- Travel insurance with helicopter evacuation coverage
- All necessary permits arranged
- Licensed guide hired (mandatory)
- Equipment checked and tested
- Flights to/from Kathmandu booked
- Lukla flights booked (or flexible dates)
- Accommodation in Kathmandu reserved
- Emergency contacts documented
- Medical check-up completed
- Vaccinations up to date
- Mental preparation for challenges ahead
Conclusion: Your Journey of a Lifetime Awaits
The Nepal Three Passes Trek represents the pinnacle of Himalayan trekking adventures. It's a journey that will test your limits, reward your efforts, and leave you with memories that will last a lifetime. From the challenging pass crossings to the warm hospitality of the Sherpa people, from the breathtaking mountain vistas to the sense of accomplishment upon completion, this trek offers everything an adventure seeker could desire.
Proper preparation, respect for the mountains and local culture, and a commitment to safety will ensure that your Three Passes Trek is not just an adventure, but a transformative experience. The mountains have a way of teaching us about ourselves, about our limits, and about what we're truly capable of achieving.
As you stand atop each pass, looking out at the endless peaks stretching to the horizon, you'll understand why people return to the Himalayas year after year. The Three Passes Trek isn't just a trek—it's a journey into the heart of one of the world's most spectacular mountain ranges, and into the depths of your own potential.
Sources and Further Reading
- Sagarmatha National Park - Official Website
- Nepal Tourism Board - Official Tourism Information
- UNESCO World Heritage - Sagarmatha National Park
- Government of Nepal - Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation
- International Mountain Guides Association - Altitude Sickness Information
For more information about trekking in Nepal, explore our guides to trekking routes, Sagarmatha National Park, and planning your Nepal adventure.